Reminiscent of Dalat, Hoi An, and George Town with a fraction of the tourists, Luang Prabang’s quiet charm and dignified embrace make for the ideal three-day retreat.

Despite living in Vietnam for nearly 5 years in the 2000s and traveling extensively across Southeast Asia, I never made the short jump to Luang Prabang. In many ways it now seems, I saved the best of Southeast Asia for last.

The relative isolation of Luang Prabang is an essential part of its charm. A lush, green carpet unfolds throughout a short one-hour flight from Bangkok or Hanoi to Luang Prabang before alighting on a tiny runway in a recently upgraded, yet still provincial aviation outpost.

This bite-sized gem mesmerizes with an unforgettable mix of timeless ritual, colonial charm, and weathered appeal. More village than city with its 24,000 inhabitants, the UNESCO World Heritage designation has stopped the clock to preserve a former royal capital on a narrow, lush peninsula wedged between the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. As we entered the city and arrived at our hotel and its neat row of house bicycles, massive banyan tree, frangipani, and blond lobby accented with books and local batik, the best of Southeast Asia seemed to present itself in a single frame that Somerset Maugham and Graham Greene would have recognized.

Luang Prabang served as the royal capital of Laos for centuries before being colonized by the French from 1893-1953. Its royal pedigree and brief but influential colonial period are evident everywhere - in the food, the architecture, and the morning rituals of hundreds of orange-clad resident monks.  

Orientation around Luang Prabang’s easy three-street grid is best experienced on the bicycles available at most hotels. Our morning commute from a cozy perch at the Azerai Hotel to Le Banneton bakery reminded me of my first trip to Hanoi in the mid-1990s, i.e. quiet and quaint without the baritone roar and staccato beep-beep of motorcycle traffic. By day, a private trip up and down the Mekong and an evening stroll through the night market to dinner and an evening tipple slowed down the clock and ushered in retreat.

On our final morning in Luang Prabang before catching a flight to Bangkok for a few days at The Siam, we found ourselves hazarding a guess at what it would be like to spend a few quiet weeks in Luang Prabang... peut-être.

The Essentials

Accomodations   

Avani+ Hotel (formerly The Azerai)

Our original plan to stay at the Belmond property in Luang Prabang faded quickly when we heard about this remarkable new property designed by Aman Resorts founder Adrian Zacha. With 53 tasteful - if not a tad bland - rooms accented with local batik prints, it is perhaps the largest hotel in Luang Prabang yet maintains an elegant, modern boutique composure at less than half the cost of Aman. Set in a 1914 bungalow complex built for the French military, our favorite details include: a sea of blond wood, the ancient banyan tree in the interior courtyard stretching over the pool, and second floor bar overlooking the primary street, Sisavangvong Road.

Amantaka

Aman continues to capture the distilled essence of place in quiet, understated fashion. Aman’s only property in Laos, Amantaka and its 24 rooms are no exception. Set in a renovated French provincial hospital compound from the early 1900s, the architecture mesmerizes with Lanna-style rooflines, verandas for days, and Art Deco flourishes throughout. For us, the effortless calm of the common spaces makes up for somewhat antiseptic rooms. Whether you are a hotel guest or a visitor, do not miss the spa or an evening cocktail by the pool.

3 Nagas and Satri House

The 1952 Model 11 Citroen parked in front of the entrance to 3 Nagas captures the essence of the colonial era in Laos that ended a year later in 1953. Yet the French live on in this boutique “MGallery” branded property from Accor. Dark floors, white walls, and pops of local fabric accent the modest 15 rooms spread across three villas that straddle the main road. Similarly, Satri House [insert more]

Belmond La Residence Phou Vao

While we are still getting used to Belmond’s rebrand from Orient Express, this hotel does not disappoint. We associate Belmond with approachable luxury - the sort of rooms and decor that will please nearly anyone with an effortless mix of culture and comfort. While the design aesthetes will be more at home at Amantaka or Azerai, Phou Vao’s perch just outside of town overlooking Mount Phousi will not disappoint.

Nourish

Le Banneton

The effortless charm of this unassuming cafe at the far end of Luang Prabang’s main street screams “Indochine” like no other. From French press coffee to seasonal fruit pastries to the ham and bechamel croissants, we returned again and again. Take a book, position yourself with a bird’s-eye view of the morning temple ritual, and don’t be surprised if Catherine Deneuve peeks around the corner...  

L’Elephant

This local institution has two branches - one each for carnivores and herbivores. While the French menu does not disappoint with hearty classics and a prix-fixe option, be adventurous and go for the Lao option. And with the Mekong just a stone’s throw away, avoid the meat that has been frozen somewhere else and trucked in... go for the local fish.

3 Nagas

Part of the eponymous hotel, we had a delightful meal in their courtyard overlooking the main street and the Citroen mentioned above. The eggplant puree and rice noodle appetizer was fine (mee gouy phan) but the spicy coconut red curry chicken (phanaeng kai) set our mouths ablaze and accelerated our shift from white wine to a refreshing evening cocktail.  

Tipples  

As usual, our first cocktail usually happens within 30 minutes of arrival at any hotel. The Avani+ Hotel was no exception. The second floor bar overlooking Sisavanvong Road was the perfect perch for enjoying the perfect early December weather. Before dinner at 3 Nagas, we walked two blocks to Amantaka for a second and were not disappointed though the staff to customer ratio was somewhat overwhelming.

525 is a cocktail lover’s oasis tucked down a verdant lane in a quiet residential pocket near the city center. Catty corner from Satri House, even the most frazzled will unclinch in this relaxed, urban vibe thanks to spot-on libations and bar bites.

Activities

Mekong River cruise  

While we

Night Market

While we cannot fully vouch for food safety in Laos, the bites on offer at the night market were delectable.

Wellness

Amantaka Spa

Do not miss the spa at Amantaka. We stopped by Amantaka and the spa director gave us a tour after an evening tipple by the pool (we stayed next door at The Azerai). The level of service and facilities was mind-bogglingly good for a relatively small outpost.